The Cambria Duster by Friday Pattern Co.: Loungewear or Outerwear?
By Martha West
I’ve been seeing so many posts about people making robes during the pandemic. I’m not a robe person but I started looking at robe-like patterns after seeing so much on social media. I decided to make the Cambria Duster by Friday Pattern Co. because I could easily see it as a luscious robe OR a lightweight jacket.
I have been operating under a number of self-induced sewing rules during the pandemic. The most successful and satisfying has been one to use my stash and make do with what I already have. So, I went up to the closet that has been storing a beautiful light blue wool crepe for 15 years. I bought it to make a suit for work just before my department went business casual. It has waited a long time for the right project and I was so certain that I had 5 yards of it that I didn’t even check before ordering the pattern. Err, it turned out to be 2.5 yards. In spite of 90 minutes of trying, I could not make it work for Cambria. So, I located two different double knit fabrics that seemed to work together and decided to go for a slightly Boho look. Sew News Magazine’s Aug/Sept 2020 issue has a gorgeous boho version of the Suki Robe by Helen’s Closet (a lovely and very popular pattern) so I thought it might work for my version.The sewing was challenging due to the very different stretch percentages of my gray cotton double-knit and the blue print polyester/nylon double-knit. Particularly since the blue print fabric had 60% stretch on the straight grain…but only 40% on the cross grain. Huh? I wish I would have noticed that before cutting out! I would have cut out on the cross grain instead.I used my walking foot to help tame the beast, particularly the front collar/facing where the two different fabrics were sewn together. It helped quite a bit but, I was a little concerned that it would still turn out too wonky to be wearable. In the end, I was very surprised by how much I like the robe/duster and I have worn it as both loungewear and outerwear since the temperatures have become more fall-like.Overall, the robe was surprisingly easy to sew and quick! I made some modifications:
Shortened the robe by 3” (I’m 5’6”)
Understitched the front of the robe as far as it was possible. Definitely necessary due to my two different fabrics.
Put a huge 2.5” hem in the sleeves because they were too long on me but I like the look of the large cuff folded back.
I didn’t add extra width across the back as a broad back adjustment and I didn’t need it in my stretchy fabric, but I recommend taking care if you aren’t using a stretchy fabric. I think the back is quite narrow…and I’ve never had to do a broad back adjustment on any pattern.
Widened the sleeves by ¾”. They are very narrow for a winter garment that you might put over a sweater. If this were a lightweight summer duster, they’re probably fine but I was aiming for something cozy.We’re considering putting a robe class together at The Sewing Hive.
Please let us know if that’s something you are interested in by sending an email.