A New Sewer’s Journey!

Meet our most determined, joyful client, Linda! She truly is one of the funniest, happiest people I have met.
Linda is finishing her FIFTH coat/jacket to be started and completed in the last 18 months. To flesh out the picture, I met Linda about two years ago when she took a pants class at a fabric store, and I was the instructor. She came with the pants already cut out, and I thought maybe a raccoon had nibbled the fabric away. (Sorry, raccoons; yes, Linda had already read this before I published it.) After a few hours, I asked if she was left-handed, which explained the tortured fabric and her tortured left hand using right-handed scissors.

One of our very first customers…

Not one to be happy just to stick her toe into the water, Linda plunged right in to learn everything she could about sewing outstanding garments. Recently retired, she had a beautiful white wool fabric, purchased many years ago while she was working, and she wanted to make a jacket. After seeing the beautiful fabric, we talked about maybe working on some linen first.

The very next project was the Kelly Anorak trench with lining.

Never one to shy away from a tough fabric if that was the correct fabric, Linda sourced a water resistant material from Seattle Fabrics, and the lining from Liberty of London. Zippers, snaps, grommets….she gamely tackled it all. She has a beautiful light weight trench she wears proudly.

The next project

…was a white wool winter coat, belted, with fake fur buttons that add flair and Linda’s distinctive style.

Linda is a shirt-and-jeans kind of laid-back girl, so Project Five was a shirt. We believe a woven shirt is a great skill builder: topstitching, buttonholes, fitted shoulders, plackets, collars, and cuffs. The results are pretty great, with rounded pearlized buttons. Along with three other ladies, Linda is finishing her French couture jacket. Up next, pants!

Here is what working with Linda has taught us…..it is a great idea to take a basic sewing course if you are a beginner, but never be afraid to dive right in and learn by just SEWING.

Whisper Boyshorts Will Make You Shout "Hooray!"

Martha West, one of our seasoned instructors, gives a shout-out about “Whisper Boyshorts” by Sinclair Patterns.

“I’ve had a few students ask me if I would teach a boyshort class, but I never found a pattern I liked until now. A few months ago, Sinclair Patterns released the Whisper Boyshort pattern, and it is a winner!
It’s a pattern with so many options: Low/Medium/High rise and leg lengths of briefs, 3”, 5”, and 7.5”. It also allows many finishing options such as bands, elastic lace, or picot elastic at the waist and/or legs. This pattern is true to size, and it comes in a huge size range from 34” -63” hip.
As far as styling options, I’ve mostly made the brief version and 5” leg. The briefs are great for everyday wear. These have become popular in my family as sleep shorts! I’ve made several pairs for my sister and myself with the 5” leg as sleep shorts– both of us are sleep short fans, and our Whispers have become our faves.
I sew mine completely on my regular sewing machine using a narrow zigzag stitch. You can use a serger if you prefer. Personally, I find serged seams a bit scratchy, so I prefer using a regular machine.
This pattern is designed for fabrics with a 4-way stretch. This means the fabric must stretch on both the straight grain and the cross grain. Look for fabrics with spandex, such as cotton/spandex or rayon/bamboo with spandex. (NOTE: I have made these with 2-way stretch 100% cotton fabric, but I sized up two sizes).
The pattern comes with the layers feature, which I highly recommend. You can print out the size (or sizes) corresponding to your measurements. I started by printing all sizes, and it’s pretty much impossible to distinguish between all the overlapping lines. But, with layers printing, you only have a couple of sizes on one pattern piece, and it is all very clear and accurate.
Lastly, the instructions that come with the pattern are VERY thorough! There’s even a lot of good information about how to alter the pattern to fit your particular shape.
I’ve added this pattern as an option for the “Sew Your Own Underwear” class we offer at The Sewing Hive. Register for private or semi-private with your friends! We’ll set up a date and time that works for you and the instructor.

Just Five Pieces

As you may know, The Sewing Hive just hired Ashleigh, to teach coat and jacket making, plus other fun garments. Here’s a little blurb she wrote about the Jill Cardigan by Seamwork Patterns:

Introducing the Jill Cardigan, created by Seamwork.

“I found it in my closet & remembered how much I loved sewing it (and have been wearing it since our meeting!). I am including in case you'd like me to offer this as well. The photos are the best I have - the Seamwork website's photos are much nicer & clearer than mine!”
~Ashleigh Sochor

This is a great pattern for the sewist wanting to try their hand at outerwear - or for an advanced sewist looking for a classic, quick addition to their wardrobe! This unlined coat features angled patch pockets, a kick pleat, and a classy shawl collar. The pattern is only five pieces and uses simple construction techniques, such as sewing the sleeves in a flat. Choose from heavy-knit sweater or thick woven fabrics to achieve your desired look. This class is two 2.5-hour sessions—search #seamworkjill on Instagram for more ideas and reviews of this pattern.
Check out the class link she’s offering and register so you can start planning class times with Ashleigh.

Say "Oui" To French Seams!

Bonjour, fellow sewing enthusiasts! Let’s learn how to sew French seams – those magical stitches that turn ordinary seams into masterpieces and bid farewell to frayed edges. So grab your spools, don your imaginary beret, and let’s journey together into sewing finesse!

Prepare Your Fabric:
You’ll want to do this on thinner fabrics, such as a lawn, voile, gauze or similar weight. This one is a lovely fabric by Art Gallery Place the fabric's wrong sides together. This is the opposite of traditional sewing, where you sew with the right sides together.

The backs of the fabrics are facing each other.

Sew the First Seam:
Pin the seam you want to sew with a French seam, ensuring the fabric is aligned.
Sew a straight seam with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. This is smaller than your final seam allowance.

Trim and Press:
Trim the seam allowance to about 1/8 inch (3mm) to remove excess bulk.
Press the seam open with an iron.

Fold and Press:
Fold the fabric along the seam line so the right sides face each other.
Press along the folded line to create a neat crease.

Sew the Second Seam:
Sew another seam with a 3/8-inch seam allowance (or your desired seam allowance). This will encase the raw edges from the first seam within the fold.
The first seam you sewed will now be hidden within this second seam.

The fronts of the fabric are now facing each other.

Press and Finish:
Press the seam to one side. The raw edges are now encased, creating a clean and finished look on the right side of the fabric.
Your French seam is complete! This method prevents fraying and creates a clean and polished finish on both sides of the fabric. It's particularly useful for delicate fabrics like chiffon, silk, and lightweight cotton.

Remember that French seams work best on fabrics that aren't too thick, as they can become bulky with multiple layers. Consider other seam finishing techniques like flat-felled seams or serged finishes if you're working with heavier fabrics.

Sewing A Swimsuit

Here’s something shocking that I learned about sewing swimwear: It’s not that hard! There are several well-designed swimsuit patterns to choose from. Sources for swim fabric are more plentiful than there have ever been. All you need are the proper tools and you’ll be on your way to producing lovely swimsuits at a very reasonable cost. By, the way, we now have a Swim Wear Class I’m teaching! The following are my recommendations:

Time To Sew

by Martha West

1. Choose a beginner friendly pattern to start with.
Your pattern should be rated as an easy/beginner pattern. It should be one that runs true to size and has had a track record of success with the greater sewing community. The best way to figure out its success is to check Instagram. If there are hundreds of smiling sewists showing off their creations, you are on the right path. (My favorites: Megan Nielsen Cottesloe, Helen’s Closet Sandpiper, Tilly and the Buttons Coralie)

2. Choose your size based on your measurements and the size recommended by the pattern you’ve chosen. ALL patterns have their own sizing so don’t get hung up on what your RTW size is.

3. Choose swim fabric! You must have an appropriate weight and stretch factor for a swimsuit to work. Don’t bother with sewing something in your stash that’s stretchy. Swim fabric is its own beast, and it has unique properties. You’ll need at least 50% stretch in both directions, and some patterns call for 70% stretch. Usually, you’ll be looking for 90/10 nylon/spandex or 90/10 polyester/spandex fabric. Check your pattern for their requirements. (Good sources are Fabric Fairy and Vogue Fabrics.

4. Choose swim lining fabric! You can use fabric designed as a swimwear lining, or you can use your exterior fabric as the lining. (Good sources are Fabric Fairy, Vogue Fabrics, and Joann)

5. Choose swim elastic. There are two types of swimsuit elastic: polyester/latex and rubber. If you’re just beginning, choose polyester/latex swimwear elastic rather than rubber elastic. The rubber elastic holds up much better over time in chlorine, but it is tricky to sew. (I only use Fabric Fairy elastic)

6. Use a Microtex sewing machine needle. I recommend purchasing 80/12 and 90/14 sizes. That way, if you need a heavier-weight needle for sewing the elastic, you will have it on hand.

7. Use your regular sewing machine and a regular zigzag stitch. Avoid using a serger for your initial suit. There is no need to serge the edges of swim fabric as it never frays and serged edges are more difficult to rip if alterations are needed.

8. Plan on purchasing double the amount of fabric you’ll need so you can make a “muslin” fitting version. You’ll need to double the exterior and lining fabric, but you really can’t make a test swimsuit out of a non-swim fabric and have accuracy.

9. Don’t bother with your iron. Swim fabrics don’t take the heat of the iron or a press very well, so don’t waste time pressing seams. Betcha never thought you’d hear me say that!