Being present for your own self and your community is vital.

The Sewing Hive was one of the sponsors at an event called Midwest Craftcon. We demonstrated how to mend and embellish clothes with simple running embroidery stitches. The keynote speaker spoke about how important it is to connect with the community. We wholeheartedly agree!

So good to see and hear discussions with old pals and meet new folks running handmade businesses, such as Megan of Craftin Outlaws and MWCC, Olivera of WildCat Gift & Party, Natalie of Natterdoodle, Wendy of Hands Skin Care, Toni of TL Yarncrafts, and many others!

Left image: Sew with us at our Sewing Meetup event and meet some friends with common interests. Click the image for more and the registration link.

Image right: Martha, one of our instructors, is a supporter of The Riverside Hospital Sewing Guild, and she hosted a chemotherapy hat sewing session at The Sewing Hive. We want to thank the Clintonville Spotlight for such an amazing cover story in their March issue! And thank you again to those who came and sewed!
The next one is happening May 20th from 2-5 pm. 

And you can grab some "me" time while the kids are at sewing camp. It will be here before you know it, so register now. Seats are limited!

Sewing is a wonderful way to "meditate" for those who need to keep their hands busy. It's like "fidget spinning," but you're being productive!

Thanks for reading and please share with your community!

Pattern Fitting Tips, by Gail Kelley

One of the reasons I started The Sewing Hive is because I remember being so frustrated with finding beautiful material, mostly when I traveled, and a great-looking pattern, but never having the garment fit me after all the work I had put into sewing. With a busy corporate sales job, I did not have much time to devote to understanding what was wrong, but over the years, I attended many workshops and seminars to learn what I was doing incorrectly.

What I learned was that the patterns I was sewing were 2-4 sizes too small for me and that a purchased pattern is just a starting point. I needed the skills to grade and alter the pattern to fit me. I hear this frustration often, so we are on a mission to allow you to sew garments that fit!

Let’s talk about how to create a great fitting pattern:
Rule #1: DO NOT PURCHASE THE PATTERN BASED ON THE SIZE YOU PURCHASE IN A STORE BOUGHT GARMENT….. pattern sizing is not the same as Ready To Wear! Sorry, it seems as though I just yelled. (I can wear a size 6 or 8 in pants purchased from a store, but in a pattern, I’m a size 12….) This is a common frustration with beginning sewers.
The first step is to get a good set of measurements, and we can help with that and understanding how to read a pattern’s size chart. Three major measurements are listed on most patterns: bust, waist, and hips. You’ll need to have these measurements before you purchase a pattern. What type of garment you are making determines which of those measurements you should use to pick the pattern size; For a top or dress, use your bust measurement, and for a skirt or pants, use your hip measurement.
You will most likely be grading the pattern between sizes, as commercial patterns use standardized sizing. They get larger and smaller proportionally. As the bust measurement gets larger, the shoulder seams are farther out, and the waist and hips get larger.

Unless you find a pattern with multi-cup bust sizing, remember that most patterns are based on a 2” difference between your full bust measurement and your chest wall measurement, also called a High Bust measurement. If your bust measurement is more than 2 inches larger than your chest wall, you may need to learn how to make a Full Bust Adjustment. Once you learn how to do this, you can apply this new skill to any pattern you choose. Once you learn what adjustments to make, you can apply them to all your patterns, each time getting easier!

If you want to learn how to fit a pattern, please sign up for a Pattern Fitting class and bring your pattern. Your measurements will be taken, and you will learn how to apply your measurements to the pattern!
The second important lesson I learned was that the fabric needed to fit the pattern’s intended drape……but I’ll save that for next time. Time to get sewing!

What Kind of Robe Are You?

What Kind Of Robe Are You? Take this short quiz to learn. Grab a pencil and paper to write down your answers, then check the list below the quiz to find out what kind of robe you really are!

What Kind of Robe Are You?

Have a little fun and take the quiz!

 I like my coffee:
A. black or with cream
B. with yummy flavors
C. I only drink tea
D. to be cocoa with marshmallows

First thing in the morning I:
A. get my beverage
B. shower
C. check my texts
D. do yoga or go outside to be one with nature

In my free time, I’d rather
A. read
B. go shopping
C. do some DIY projects
D. watch YouTube videos

I like to give gifts such as
A. gift cards
B. jewelry
C. candy
D. something funny

The vacation of my choice would be at
A. cabin in the woods
B. a fancy resort
C. the beach
D. theme parks across the USA 

My favorite outfit is
A. a flannel shirt, jeans 
B. a glamorous ensemble with lots of sparkles
C. a fluffy sweater and leggings
D. joggers and a hoodie
  
My favorite flowers are
A. roses
B. Bird of Paradise
C. Queen Annes Lace
D. daisies

If your answers were mostly A’s you are a warm, soft wrap-robe.
You love your quiet time and hanging with your family and pets. Look for flannels or fleece in plaid or with a holiday-theme and a pattern with big pockets. This long one has a zipper front and would be great in a fleece, by Butterick Patterns.

If your answers were mostly B’s you are a dressing robe. Here’s a pattern by Mood Fabrics.
Beauty and glamour are what you are known for. You like to take your time putting on makeup and trying new hairstyles. Look for florals or fabric with a little sparkle in cotton lawns, silks, or satins, add some piping with contrasting cuffs and collar.

If your answers were mostly C’s you are a caftan. Here’s a fun one by Simplicity.
Everything you do is with passion, and breaking the rules is not new to you. You like running around in the house and sometimes outdoors by the pool in your long breezy coverup and not much else. Look for bright colors and large-scale motifs that express your personality. You don’t even need a pattern for this type of robe. It’s that easy to make!

If your answers were mostly Ds, you are a bathrobe. Melly Sews has a free tutorial here.
When your friends are around they can depend on you to crack a joke or bring something fun to do. You like to make people happy. You are a zippered bathrobe that’s perfect for throwing on after stepping out of the shower or when you need some decompression time. It’s great to make people happy, but you need to remember your own self-care. Look for soft pastels or bright citrus colors in 100% cotton terrycloth. Add a front zipper or a hood. 

Now, let’s make a robe. We have robe classes here.

The Marlo Cardigan Sweater: A Pattern Review by Martha West

When it was still 90 degrees outside, Jamie and I picked a theme for our posts for October.  That theme was “Cozy Sewing”.  I decided to set out a bit of a challenge for myself to sew a sweatshirt that looks “upscale”.  I spend most of the winter in sweatshirt fleece because it is so warm.  But, it does look like something that should be worn at the gym.  I guess that 2.5 years of pandemic attire I’m ready to look a little more dressed up.  

I chose the Marlo Cardigan pattern by True Bias.  This is a great-looking sweater and a pretty fast sew.  I made both the long and cropped versions last year so it’s a Tried-and-True (TNT) pattern for me.  The thing that’s really unique about this pattern is that it is designed so that the main body of the sweater can be made with either a knit or a woven fabric!  The bottom band and the binding must be made out of a stretchy knit, but the body can be made out of non-stretch wool or a cozy sweater knit.  

Marlo Cardigan or “Sweatigan” Class

Martha West is teaching this class. You can register for it here.

This is important in the design of my “sweatigan” because sweatshirt fleece has very little stretch.  Particularly fleece that is more densely woven and, hence, warmer.  I used a 14oz Champion Sweatshirt Fleece (from Nick of Time Textiles  nickoftimefabric.com) that I purchased last winter.  It’s a lovely fleece but it’s not very stretchy.  

I wanted to use a stretchier fabric for the cuffs and front binding and I also wanted to upgrade the look of the garment so it didn’t just look like another sweatshirt.  So I selected a heavy-weight jersey in a houndstooth print from Vogue Fabrics (VF225-16).  Please note: a heavyweight jersey is different than a single jersey.  It is much more densely woven with lots more structure.  A lightweight jersey would have been unsuitable for the garment as it would be too lightweight to withstand the weight of the sweatshirt fleece.  Other options are double jersey (NOT double brushed jersey) or ribbing or possibly scuba if it has enough stretch.

I also decided that adding the pockets which are meant for the longer version to my cropped cardigan.  I’m so glad I did.  Placing the buttons on the pockets also help tie the contrast band to the solid colored cardi.

As I was sewing I was worried that the heavyweight jersey would be too lightweight but it turned out great.  I love wearing my “sweatigan” and feel a little bit dressed up in it.  I used some vintage buttons I had in my stash.  I believe they are the cherry on top of this delightful dessert of a sweater.  

I can’t say enough about the Marlo Cardigan pattern from True Bias.  If you’ve thought of jumping into sewing with sweater knits, this pattern is for you!  And I teach a class that uses this pattern as one of the options.  I hope to see you in class during the chilly months ahead!

Getting Cozy Through History, by Julie Burnsides Diaz

Isn’t it nice to wake up on a crisp fall morning, slip on your favorite fuzzy slippers, maybe a pair of fleece lined leggings and a nice, heavy sweatshirt to go fetch the newspaper? While we wrap up in our oldest, softest, most comfortable clothes in our house, or even our driveway, we would never dream of wearing them out to a nice dinner. Our ancestors felt the same, and the realm of “undress” or at-home wear encompasses a variety of cozy options.
In the days before thermostats and climate control, a fireplace could only do so much to combat the winter chill. In the 18th century, once you’d taken off your daytime clothing, you might wrap up in a quilted banyan like this blue one on the right. Banyans were the precursor to a bathrobe or dressing gown, and were often worn for receiving informal visitors or spending time with family at home.

Metropolitan Museum of Art 2008.75, 1760-1780)

A wrapping gown, sometimes called a “sultana” might be made of expensive silks and lined with sumptuous furs. Catherine, Lady Leicester, chose have her portrait painted in her sultana, displaying her sophistication and wealth in the above image on the right. Imagine posting an Instagram selfie in a Dior bathrobe!

Once skirts got bigger, into the mid-19th century, the air circulation under a hoop skirt could lead to some unpleasant drafts. Women fought the chill with a fad for red petticoats. They might be knitted, crocheted, made from wool flannel, quilted, striped, or any combination thereof (Left: Missouri History Museum 1961.098.0003, ca 1860. Right: Metropolitan Museum of Art 2009.300.7721a, 1865-70)

The wrapper, an un-fitted dress that didn’t require a corset or hoop underneath was a popular choice for at-home wear. Its gathered waist that often tied or laced shut was practical for maternity wear and heavy housework, and probably provided a welcome respite from the confining nature of fashionable clothing. This one, with its rust-colored quilted silk accents is the ultimate in cozy

The forced opening of Japan to Western trade in 1853 increased the appetite of white consumers for imported Asian goods. Dressing gowns based on traditional kimono designs but cut in Western silhouettes became very popular, like this one from the FIDM Museum (Middle image FIDM 80.40.1, ca 1885) and these two from the Met (Right: Metropolitan Museum of Art 1970.83ab and 1975.227.7ab).

Love what you’ve seen? Want to add some historical cozy to your modern wardobe or your costume closet? Book a private class with Julie for yourself and a few friends, or a one-on- one lesson if you prefer, and get to work on elevating your loungewear to the level of art!